Showing posts with label HIV/AIDS. Show all posts
Showing posts with label HIV/AIDS. Show all posts
Monday, June 1, 2009
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
From TED: Hans Rosling on HIV: New facts and stunning data visuals
After a long day of AIDS writing, this got me all pumped up:
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Hallelujah: South African Health Minister Makes the HIV-AIDS Link
So most people I talk to find it - surprising - that democratically elected government officials , in today's world, would deny such ideas as ... say... that HIV causes AIDS. However, sadly in South Africa, that has been the case.... but no longer my friends, no longer.
South Africa's new health minister broke dramatically on Monday from a decade of discredited government policies on AIDS, declaring that the disease was unquestionably caused by HIV and must be treated with conventionalmedicine.
Health Minister Barbara Hogan's pronouncement marked the official end to 10 years of denial about the link between HIV and AIDS by former President Thabo Mbeki and his health minister Manto Tshabalala-Msimang.
Activists accused [former health minister] Tshabalala-Msimang of spreading confusion about AIDS through her public mistrust of antiretroviral medicines and promotion of nutritional remedies such as garlic, beetroot, lemon, olive oil and the African potato.
South Africa now has the world's highest number of people with HIV, counting some 5.4 million people as infected with the virus that causes AIDS.
Better late than never... right?
Monday, September 29, 2008
Chapter one, coming up... and a new president for South Africa!
Today I will submit Chapter 1 of my thesis - eeeek! I have some MAJOR writing to do before this afternoon.
Oh, and we have a new president of South Africa. I really don't know anything about him - other than he sacked the health minister, which leads me to the next news....
BEAUTIFULLY, we have a NEW HEALTH MINISTER!!!!!!!!!!!
The last one was - and I'm not a bit ashamed to feel this way - one of the worst things to ever happen to South Africa. I personally believe that her prevarication has directly led to the deaths of hundreds if not thousands of HIV positive people. That said, I wish her well in her new career and thank God that there is someone else in her position.
http://allafrica.com/stories/200809250958.html
What a year to be in South Africa!
Oh, and we have a new president of South Africa. I really don't know anything about him - other than he sacked the health minister, which leads me to the next news....
BEAUTIFULLY, we have a NEW HEALTH MINISTER!!!!!!!!!!!
The last one was - and I'm not a bit ashamed to feel this way - one of the worst things to ever happen to South Africa. I personally believe that her prevarication has directly led to the deaths of hundreds if not thousands of HIV positive people. That said, I wish her well in her new career and thank God that there is someone else in her position.
http://allafrica.com/stories/200809250958.html
What a year to be in South Africa!
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Vacillation
On the way to the post office this morning I passed a man I pass almost everyday. He sits under one of the trees on the sidewalk and plays the guitar for tips. Eben befriended him early in the year, and through that connection, he always remembers me as well, and usually jumps up to give me a hug and remind me that I promised to buy a CD from him before the end of the year.
He is also HIV positive.
Today when I walked by him he wasn't playing, and he didn't jump up - he was quite clearly ill. I stopped to say hi on my way back and noticed that his eyes are almost completely yellow now, a sign of jaundice. He lifted his shirt to show me an oozing infection spreading over his stomach. This is an oportunistic infection - one that with a healthy immune system would not have made it past white blood cells. But this infection is rotting his skin and if left unchecked, will kill him.
To stay healthy he needs not only ARVs but also a diet rich in vegetables, fruits and grains - expensive commodities for someone who makes his money on the street at the mercy of those who walk by.
As usual, he asked me for money. This time I actually gave him a few rand hoping that he will buy vegetables, though I have no idea whether he will or not.
He asked me for a loan so that he could get an injection to kill the infection. I did not give it to him. I don't know whether I should have or not. I don't even know if he was telling the truth or not. I don't know if that should matter or not.
A side note - there is a very distinct difference between beggers on the street here and beggers in the United States. In the US, I usually know what to do - I know our systems are far from perfect, but there are shelters and soup kitchens, unemployment agencies, and so on that are in place. It does not work for everyone, but most people who find themselves on the street are able at some point to be reintegrated into the working economy. This is not to say that poverty is not very REAL in the United States - far from it. Poverty is real and alive and affecting thousands of people, something I saw everyday when I was working in Houston. It is something that needs fought with every ounce of strength that Americans have.
But here, poverty and homelessness are different than they are in the United States. Yes, there are a couple soup kitchens (in Grahamstown they are both run by a wonderful Rotarian) - but there is no shelter, or infastructure in place to absorb the people on the street and reintegrate them into the economy. And worse, there is no industry in Grahamstown. Few jobs. Especially if you are sick. Especially if you are dying - which an estimated 18-24% of the population is. That means that roughly one out of every 4 or 5 people of working age are facing similar dilemmas to the man I pass on the street every day - they are HIV positive. And in places like the township, unemployment reaches as high as 75 or 80%.
I vacillate between surges of hope and feelings of futility.
He is also HIV positive.
Today when I walked by him he wasn't playing, and he didn't jump up - he was quite clearly ill. I stopped to say hi on my way back and noticed that his eyes are almost completely yellow now, a sign of jaundice. He lifted his shirt to show me an oozing infection spreading over his stomach. This is an oportunistic infection - one that with a healthy immune system would not have made it past white blood cells. But this infection is rotting his skin and if left unchecked, will kill him.
To stay healthy he needs not only ARVs but also a diet rich in vegetables, fruits and grains - expensive commodities for someone who makes his money on the street at the mercy of those who walk by.
As usual, he asked me for money. This time I actually gave him a few rand hoping that he will buy vegetables, though I have no idea whether he will or not.
He asked me for a loan so that he could get an injection to kill the infection. I did not give it to him. I don't know whether I should have or not. I don't even know if he was telling the truth or not. I don't know if that should matter or not.
A side note - there is a very distinct difference between beggers on the street here and beggers in the United States. In the US, I usually know what to do - I know our systems are far from perfect, but there are shelters and soup kitchens, unemployment agencies, and so on that are in place. It does not work for everyone, but most people who find themselves on the street are able at some point to be reintegrated into the working economy. This is not to say that poverty is not very REAL in the United States - far from it. Poverty is real and alive and affecting thousands of people, something I saw everyday when I was working in Houston. It is something that needs fought with every ounce of strength that Americans have.
But here, poverty and homelessness are different than they are in the United States. Yes, there are a couple soup kitchens (in Grahamstown they are both run by a wonderful Rotarian) - but there is no shelter, or infastructure in place to absorb the people on the street and reintegrate them into the economy. And worse, there is no industry in Grahamstown. Few jobs. Especially if you are sick. Especially if you are dying - which an estimated 18-24% of the population is. That means that roughly one out of every 4 or 5 people of working age are facing similar dilemmas to the man I pass on the street every day - they are HIV positive. And in places like the township, unemployment reaches as high as 75 or 80%.
I vacillate between surges of hope and feelings of futility.
Thursday, August 21, 2008
Malawi, I'm on my way - and other such news.
Its official! I just booked a ticket to Malawi for September 10-17th. One of our dear family friends, Tracy, is coming down with her daughter to prepare to officially open an orphanage. This is a project that I have held near to my heart since the moment I heard about it, and I am so excited toIgo and spend some time (albeit short) with them and see the amazing work that is taking place. Here's the link to the orphanage:
McKallie's Home of Future and Hope
It continues to amaze me that I do things like book tickets to Malawi and plan trips to orphanages as one of my daily activities. I cannot image being more blessed. I have been thinking about this a lot lately... and I don't even know where to begin expressing gratitude for - all of this.
In other news, I went back to Settler's Hospital today. (this is where I play with HIV+ kids while they wait for treatment) This was a somewhat big deal for me because since I went last week I have been pretty emotional - it was very hard on me emotionally last time. Today I spent the morning making animal masks with the kids and then playing tiger and springbok (meaning they are the tigers and I am the springbok, meaning essentially they have an excuse to hit/kick me - its great). It amazes me how impressionable kids are. They especially liked the way that I drew stripes on my tiger mask, and about 4 of them copied me meticulously. I kept lamenting that I had gone the traditional route with the colors, as all of them followed suit (I believe in encouraging creativity, even if that means a green polka-dot tiger). It made me hyper-aware of how actions are so much louder than words. Not speaking the same language also makes me aware of that. :)
Tangent on that note: today I was really hyped up about talking to the kids in Xhosa, as almost none of them speak English. I made a promise to go out of my way to address them in Xhosa (as most of the volunteers don't). So I sat down, gathered my courage (and pride), picked my kid, and threw at him my very best opening lines of Xhosa. He just stared at me. So I tried again, speaking more clearly this time - Ngubani igama lakho? (what is your name?) - more stares. Then he said, patiently: Are you trying to ask my name? "My name is Sipho and I speak English." Ha! Thank you Sipho.
McKallie's Home of Future and Hope
It continues to amaze me that I do things like book tickets to Malawi and plan trips to orphanages as one of my daily activities. I cannot image being more blessed. I have been thinking about this a lot lately... and I don't even know where to begin expressing gratitude for - all of this.
In other news, I went back to Settler's Hospital today. (this is where I play with HIV+ kids while they wait for treatment) This was a somewhat big deal for me because since I went last week I have been pretty emotional - it was very hard on me emotionally last time. Today I spent the morning making animal masks with the kids and then playing tiger and springbok (meaning they are the tigers and I am the springbok, meaning essentially they have an excuse to hit/kick me - its great). It amazes me how impressionable kids are. They especially liked the way that I drew stripes on my tiger mask, and about 4 of them copied me meticulously. I kept lamenting that I had gone the traditional route with the colors, as all of them followed suit (I believe in encouraging creativity, even if that means a green polka-dot tiger). It made me hyper-aware of how actions are so much louder than words. Not speaking the same language also makes me aware of that. :)
Tangent on that note: today I was really hyped up about talking to the kids in Xhosa, as almost none of them speak English. I made a promise to go out of my way to address them in Xhosa (as most of the volunteers don't). So I sat down, gathered my courage (and pride), picked my kid, and threw at him my very best opening lines of Xhosa. He just stared at me. So I tried again, speaking more clearly this time - Ngubani igama lakho? (what is your name?) - more stares. Then he said, patiently: Are you trying to ask my name? "My name is Sipho and I speak English." Ha! Thank you Sipho.
Thursday, August 14, 2008
heavy stuff.
I spent the morning 'volunteering' at Settler's Hosipital in the Children's HIV treatment centre. My job was to color with the kids while we waited for them to receive their ARV treatment, and then afterward while they waited for the blood test results.
I colored very hard. I colored like it was the last job I would ever have. I colored in panic, knowing I would only have a few minutes with each kid, and I was desperate to give them something.
It doesn't make sense. I mean, I study a lot about AIDS. All I do is read and write about it all day. And I go to AIDS testing centers, and I go to schools for street kids, and I take courses that study all of the underlying causes, so I get it. I get it. But I don't get it.
For each kid, I made a picture with their name in it, with animals, shapes or flowers all around their name. Some of the kids made me one, too, which was beyond precious.
The last kid I was coloring with didn't know how to write her name. I say her-- but I am actually not sure if it was a boy or a girl. She was completely emaciated. She almost didn't look entirely human - her eyes were so big and sunken into her head, the little bones were so sharp and looked like they were going to break through her skin. She was dying. I don't know how old she was - maybe 6? She was so tired, I could barely get her to color at all. We drew a lot of shapes together, like circles, triangles, squares, hearts. Then I drew a star and she looked up at me all shocked. So we spent the next 20 minutes or so learning how to draw stars, her mimicking me. Each time she completed one, she would smile this beautiful smile that literally melted my heart right out of my chest and onto the table. At the end, she drew one all by herself, and then had to go in for her treatment. She took the paper with her stars with her.
After she came out she was too tired to do much more, so I colored in the stars for her.
There is nothing fair about it.
I am angry.
I colored very hard. I colored like it was the last job I would ever have. I colored in panic, knowing I would only have a few minutes with each kid, and I was desperate to give them something.
It doesn't make sense. I mean, I study a lot about AIDS. All I do is read and write about it all day. And I go to AIDS testing centers, and I go to schools for street kids, and I take courses that study all of the underlying causes, so I get it. I get it. But I don't get it.
For each kid, I made a picture with their name in it, with animals, shapes or flowers all around their name. Some of the kids made me one, too, which was beyond precious.
The last kid I was coloring with didn't know how to write her name. I say her-- but I am actually not sure if it was a boy or a girl. She was completely emaciated. She almost didn't look entirely human - her eyes were so big and sunken into her head, the little bones were so sharp and looked like they were going to break through her skin. She was dying. I don't know how old she was - maybe 6? She was so tired, I could barely get her to color at all. We drew a lot of shapes together, like circles, triangles, squares, hearts. Then I drew a star and she looked up at me all shocked. So we spent the next 20 minutes or so learning how to draw stars, her mimicking me. Each time she completed one, she would smile this beautiful smile that literally melted my heart right out of my chest and onto the table. At the end, she drew one all by herself, and then had to go in for her treatment. She took the paper with her stars with her.
After she came out she was too tired to do much more, so I colored in the stars for her.
There is nothing fair about it.
I am angry.
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Uganda turns to mass circumcision in Aids fight
FRANK NYAKAIRU | KAMPALA, UGANDA - Aug 13 2008 12:21
Ugandan authorities have launched a mass circumcision drive with the hope it will reduce HIV/Aids rates in the East African country.
Some studies indicate circumcision could be 70% effective in protecting men against infection by the virus during heterosexual intercourse, when used in conjunction with condoms and other safe-sex practices.
Government officials in Kampala have decided to take advantage of a month-long traditional "circumcision season" practised by some tribes to drive the message home.
"Socially, it is uniting, and now it has also been proven medically; that is gratifying and it is now part and parcel of the strategy for fighting Aids," Kibale Wambi, chairperson of Sironko district in eastern Uganda, said.
The government plans to circumcise more than 3 000 local youths between the ages of 12 and 18. HIV activists say there needs to be more money and efforts like this on a global scale.
But some critics of circumcision in Uganda say it is brutal and dangerous. In traditional settings like Sironko, circumcisers have used the same knife for each young man.
This time, the government has introduced a strict one-knife-per-operation ruling to ensure no infections are passed on.
"If a knife is to be re-used on another person, it first has to be sterilised," Wambi said, wearing a traditional hat covered with cowrie shells.
"We have also discouraged the traditional practice of forcing the circumcised males into sexual intercourse to prove their manhood after the wound heals, to avoid the spread of sexually transmitted diseases."
Some experts fear that some of the newly circumcised men may believe they are immune following the procedure -- translating into even more risky sexual behaviour.
"All I know is that when I am circumcised, it will not be as easy for me to get infected with HIV/Aids," said one young man, Kizeja Michael, as he lined up for the operation.
"People who are circumcised are not able to get Aids," said his friend, Peter Kibatsi.
Uganda has been widely praised for an education campaign about condoms that is credited with cutting HIV prevalence rates from 30% two decades ago to about 6% today. -- Reuters
Ugandan authorities have launched a mass circumcision drive with the hope it will reduce HIV/Aids rates in the East African country.
Some studies indicate circumcision could be 70% effective in protecting men against infection by the virus during heterosexual intercourse, when used in conjunction with condoms and other safe-sex practices.
Government officials in Kampala have decided to take advantage of a month-long traditional "circumcision season" practised by some tribes to drive the message home.
"Socially, it is uniting, and now it has also been proven medically; that is gratifying and it is now part and parcel of the strategy for fighting Aids," Kibale Wambi, chairperson of Sironko district in eastern Uganda, said.
The government plans to circumcise more than 3 000 local youths between the ages of 12 and 18. HIV activists say there needs to be more money and efforts like this on a global scale.
But some critics of circumcision in Uganda say it is brutal and dangerous. In traditional settings like Sironko, circumcisers have used the same knife for each young man.
This time, the government has introduced a strict one-knife-per-operation ruling to ensure no infections are passed on.
"If a knife is to be re-used on another person, it first has to be sterilised," Wambi said, wearing a traditional hat covered with cowrie shells.
"We have also discouraged the traditional practice of forcing the circumcised males into sexual intercourse to prove their manhood after the wound heals, to avoid the spread of sexually transmitted diseases."
Some experts fear that some of the newly circumcised men may believe they are immune following the procedure -- translating into even more risky sexual behaviour.
"All I know is that when I am circumcised, it will not be as easy for me to get infected with HIV/Aids," said one young man, Kizeja Michael, as he lined up for the operation.
"People who are circumcised are not able to get Aids," said his friend, Peter Kibatsi.
Uganda has been widely praised for an education campaign about condoms that is credited with cutting HIV prevalence rates from 30% two decades ago to about 6% today. -- Reuters
Sunday, May 25, 2008
AIDs Candlelight Memorial Service
A few days ago I attended an AIDs Candlelight Memorial Service. It was a service that was meant both to honor those who have died in the past year from AIDs and to raise awareness.
It was incredibly touching, in many ways - first of all, they read off all of the names of the people who have died in Grahamstown from AIDs in the last year- and the number was utterly staggering. Name after name was read off - it truly put into perspective the enormity of this problem - not just in general, but right here in our own community.Second of all, it was inspiring to see the numbers of people out there - people dressed in red, people in HIV positive t-shirts (like the one I am wearing in the picture)... in short, people committed to putting an end to this disease. We held a moment of silence, but the women broke it after a minute or so and broke into song, which carried on for several minutes. The man sitting next to me said that the songs they were singing were the same songs they sang when they rallied against apartheid - songs of freedom, but this time, it is directed at AIDs.
Monday, May 12, 2008
The Biology of HIV
When I came to Rhodes, I joined SHARC, the student version of the South African Treatment Action Campain, which is committed to stopping the spread of AIDS and to upholding human rights. I elected to become a peer-educator, and to become certified on how to give informational talks to peers about HIV/AIDs, and safe sex. Tonight, as part of my peer-ed training, I am going to take a class on the biology of HIV. It is a fascinating virus - it is terrifying how 'smart' it is.
A couple of weeks ago, I took a course on how ARV treatments work, and it blew me away. I had no idea that some ARVs have much the same side effects as chemotherapy - (hair loss, loss of libido, etc. etc.) or that one of the possible side effects is lactic acidosis, which can be fatal if you do not stop treatments immediately. Learning about the side effects has helped me understand partially why President Mbeki and others have questioned the effectiveness and toxicity of ARVs. Though I still don't understand/agree, I am getting a better feel for their positions, or realizing they are not completely irrational. I am excited to learn about the virus tonight.
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Wish me luck!!!
Everyone wish my luck, tomorrow I am defending my Master's thesis proposal in front of the Politics department, eeek! Big day. After I hear their comments, I submit it to the Higher Degrees Committee and they either reject it or accept it. If they accept it, I can start (or keep) working on my thesis. If they reject it.... I'm going to have some extra time on my hands next semester. :)
My thesis is on the Politicization of AIDS in South African politics. Or, if you are really curious, here are the first couple of lines from my proposal---
As I just read that through again, I realized I have a major grammatical mistake already. Oh my. I am REALLY going to need that luck!
My thesis is on the Politicization of AIDS in South African politics. Or, if you are really curious, here are the first couple of lines from my proposal---
“Explaining the Politics of AIDS: A critical examination of the South African state response to the HIV/AIDS epidemic”
I propose to examine possible explanations for the nature of the political response to HIV/AIDS in South Africa, specifically, the apparent inability of the state to exercise effective leadership and deal decisively with the HIV/AIDS epidemic and a continued adherence to inadequate treatment and prevention policies despite the alarming scale of the epidemic.
As I just read that through again, I realized I have a major grammatical mistake already. Oh my. I am REALLY going to need that luck!
Monday, March 3, 2008
Update Email #3
Hello hello hello!!!
First arriving in Grahamstown was an emotional let-down after the dynamicism of living in Cape Town. In Cape Town I was under a constant barrage of social justice issues. Grahamstown was painfully silent upon first arrival. Or rather - maybe deafening would be a better word. It was "O-week" - Freshman orientation, and the campus was under attack by a giant herd of drunken 18 year olds playing very loud 2 year old bad American hip-hop. So I spent the better part of my 1st week here avoiding every orientation activity that I could (I know, not very ambassadorial-like of me) and searching for the passion I had felt from South Africans in Cape Town (and I don't mean the passion of a 19 year old boy who just got out of all-boys boarding school, because we certainly had enough of that to go around). It has taken a while - but I now realize that Grahamstonians live in a constant battle with social justice... that becomes increasingly apparent the longer I am here.
I live in a house, a great house actually. I live with 5 other South African post-grad (aka graduate) students. We are quite the diverse group - 2 Afrikaners, a Coloured** girl, a black Xhosa-speaking girl, and English girl, and myself. We have our own little Rainbow house...
**During Apartheid, all people were demarcated by race. I think there were something like 7 categories, but the main ones were White (Afrikaner or English), Native (black Africans - all of the different tribes were lumped into one category), Indian, and Coloured. Coloured was taken to mean anyone of mixed descent or of Asian descent. Today, the terms are still in use, though instead of using "Native", people in general refer to black Africans as African (which gets confusing and is disputed by some people). People still refer to people of mixed racial background as Coloured. It does not have the negative connotation here that it does in the states.
Anyway, the 6 of us live in a house on the top of THE HILL. The hill and I have an extreme love-hate relationship. It definitely is helping my leg muscles, and for that I am grateful. For every other reason, I hate it with a passion that burns deep and wide. Especially at night. Especially when it is raining. And especially, especially especially when it is hot. Today it is hot, which is why I am in the computer lab, because there is a fan in the computer lab (I don't have one in my room). AND it does not require walking up a hill.
We don't have a kitchen in our house - correction: we do have a kitchen in our house, it just doesn't have kitchen things like an oven. Or a stove. We do have a microwave, but we are told we can't cook in it unless it is popcorn.... which is a rule I definitely break. Shhh. We also have rules like we have to sign boys in and out, no guests after midnight, no candles, have to check out if we are leaving overnight, etc. etc. Their end of the deal is that they will provide electricity, water, and internet. So far, I have water and electricity. Until they get the internet going, I am going my soup in the microwave. :)
Our dining hall puts on events frequently where we have to get super dressed up (as in formal ball gowns - did I BRING a ball gown? No. Someone failed to tell me that when I moved to Africa I was going to need a ball gown) and we drink white wine and talk about intellectual things. Our dining hall has high ceilings, colonial architecture - it is kind of surreal - sometimes I feel like I am in a strange Harry Potter movie.
But then I walk into town past dozens and dozens of beggers who walk in from the townships that surround the city, and I remember that I am in Africa.
Grahamstown is a funny little place. It is this quaint little town nestled between hills with an amazingly reputed university with beautiful buildings and an Arts festival every summer that is known throughout the world. HOWEVER, as I mention below, it is in the poorest province in South Africa. The lovely hills that surround the city are covered with informal settlements - townships, or as they call it here - the Location. From the manicured lawns of the university, you can look up and see the horizon saturated with poverty.
I have a really hard time just not thinking about that. Perhaps I will become more inoculated as the months go on, but so far, I can't do it. Fortunately, the community here is mobilizing around the issues, and I am able to join the the wave. Here are some of the projects I am involving myself in:
We had our Rotary orientation last weekend in Cape Town - which was INCREDIBLE. I will update more about it on my blog, but suffice it to say, it was the most thoughtfully planned, incredible weekend I could have ever hoped for. The Rotarians here truly are some of the most gracious and welcoming people I have ever met. I feel so fortunate to have a Rotary district at home that supports me as much as they do AND a Rotary club here that supports me as much as they do - I am truly sandwiched in the best way possible!!
And not to be forgotten, I'm in school! I am taking 3 courses (which is a lot for here, most Masters students only take 1 or 2 - which I still do not understand --- maybe I will at exam time)
Needless to say - I am very busy.
Preview for next update: ---- Road trip.... TO NAMIBIA! :)
Much love.
Haley
PS - I LOVE hearing from you, it makes me feel so much more grounded and makes living abroad seem easy. Please keep the emails coming and update me on your life!!
First arriving in Grahamstown was an emotional let-down after the dynamicism of living in Cape Town. In Cape Town I was under a constant barrage of social justice issues. Grahamstown was painfully silent upon first arrival. Or rather - maybe deafening would be a better word. It was "O-week" - Freshman orientation, and the campus was under attack by a giant herd of drunken 18 year olds playing very loud 2 year old bad American hip-hop. So I spent the better part of my 1st week here avoiding every orientation activity that I could (I know, not very ambassadorial-like of me) and searching for the passion I had felt from South Africans in Cape Town (and I don't mean the passion of a 19 year old boy who just got out of all-boys boarding school, because we certainly had enough of that to go around). It has taken a while - but I now realize that Grahamstonians live in a constant battle with social justice... that becomes increasingly apparent the longer I am here.
I live in a house, a great house actually. I live with 5 other South African post-grad (aka graduate) students. We are quite the diverse group - 2 Afrikaners, a Coloured** girl, a black Xhosa-speaking girl, and English girl, and myself. We have our own little Rainbow house...
**During Apartheid, all people were demarcated by race. I think there were something like 7 categories, but the main ones were White (Afrikaner or English), Native (black Africans - all of the different tribes were lumped into one category), Indian, and Coloured. Coloured was taken to mean anyone of mixed descent or of Asian descent. Today, the terms are still in use, though instead of using "Native", people in general refer to black Africans as African (which gets confusing and is disputed by some people). People still refer to people of mixed racial background as Coloured. It does not have the negative connotation here that it does in the states.
Anyway, the 6 of us live in a house on the top of THE HILL. The hill and I have an extreme love-hate relationship. It definitely is helping my leg muscles, and for that I am grateful. For every other reason, I hate it with a passion that burns deep and wide. Especially at night. Especially when it is raining. And especially, especially especially when it is hot. Today it is hot, which is why I am in the computer lab, because there is a fan in the computer lab (I don't have one in my room). AND it does not require walking up a hill.
We don't have a kitchen in our house - correction: we do have a kitchen in our house, it just doesn't have kitchen things like an oven. Or a stove. We do have a microwave, but we are told we can't cook in it unless it is popcorn.... which is a rule I definitely break. Shhh. We also have rules like we have to sign boys in and out, no guests after midnight, no candles, have to check out if we are leaving overnight, etc. etc. Their end of the deal is that they will provide electricity, water, and internet. So far, I have water and electricity. Until they get the internet going, I am going my soup in the microwave. :)
Our dining hall puts on events frequently where we have to get super dressed up (as in formal ball gowns - did I BRING a ball gown? No. Someone failed to tell me that when I moved to Africa I was going to need a ball gown) and we drink white wine and talk about intellectual things. Our dining hall has high ceilings, colonial architecture - it is kind of surreal - sometimes I feel like I am in a strange Harry Potter movie.
But then I walk into town past dozens and dozens of beggers who walk in from the townships that surround the city, and I remember that I am in Africa.
Grahamstown is a funny little place. It is this quaint little town nestled between hills with an amazingly reputed university with beautiful buildings and an Arts festival every summer that is known throughout the world. HOWEVER, as I mention below, it is in the poorest province in South Africa. The lovely hills that surround the city are covered with informal settlements - townships, or as they call it here - the Location. From the manicured lawns of the university, you can look up and see the horizon saturated with poverty.
I have a really hard time just not thinking about that. Perhaps I will become more inoculated as the months go on, but so far, I can't do it. Fortunately, the community here is mobilizing around the issues, and I am able to join the the wave. Here are some of the projects I am involving myself in:
- SHARC - a student group dedicated to issues surrounding HIV/AIDS - and connected to the nation-wide TAC (treatment action campaign)
- Rotaract - in conjunction with the Rotary clubs, working on all sorts of community issues
- Amasango - a school specifically for street children
- the Raphael Centre - a treatment center for people who are HIV+, specifically women and children
- Rotary - my Rotary club involves itself in the community in a variety of ways. Right now I am going to work with them on a literacy project aimed at township schools.
We had our Rotary orientation last weekend in Cape Town - which was INCREDIBLE. I will update more about it on my blog, but suffice it to say, it was the most thoughtfully planned, incredible weekend I could have ever hoped for. The Rotarians here truly are some of the most gracious and welcoming people I have ever met. I feel so fortunate to have a Rotary district at home that supports me as much as they do AND a Rotary club here that supports me as much as they do - I am truly sandwiched in the best way possible!!
And not to be forgotten, I'm in school! I am taking 3 courses (which is a lot for here, most Masters students only take 1 or 2 - which I still do not understand --- maybe I will at exam time)
- Post-colonial Identities - An anthropology class, which is AMAZING - the first half has been focused on construction of identity since colonialism, and the second half of the class is how that plays out in Africa - namely in incidences of genocide, war, and conflict. Next week we start the Rwandan genocide.
- IR Theory - a true Political theory class, but it is so interesting to look at it from an African context. The theories play out very differently if you are talking from the perspective of one of the "periphery" states.
- Cold War Studies - Again, interesting mainly because we focus on the non-US/USSR relations, but on how the Cold War played itself out in the developing world. This class is exciting because at the end of the semester we are presenting our research at a seminar, with the option of publishing.
Needless to say - I am very busy.
Preview for next update: ---- Road trip.... TO NAMIBIA! :)
Much love.
Haley
PS - I LOVE hearing from you, it makes me feel so much more grounded and makes living abroad seem easy. Please keep the emails coming and update me on your life!!
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