Pony Trekking in Lesotho

MINE of GOLD

During the Rotary District Conference, some Rotarians arranged for the other Ambassadorial Scholars and I to go down into a working GOLD MINE. We went over 2 kilometers down. It takes extracting over 2 tons of ore to get even 5 grams of gold, so we didn't exactly see a lot of it --- the picture with us pointing is supposedly at something that might be gold. We weren't really convinced. It was incredibly interesting and I am so glad that we had the experience of going down. Much of South Africa's wealth has come from the mining industry, and going down to see how people work was ridiculously eye opening. It was over 104 degrees down there and so deep that we had to pop our ears (like you do when you scuba dive) because of the pressure. It was DARK and WET - there were rats and the the toilets were disgusting. Over 2000 men were working underground the day we went down - just unbelievable.

One of the more memorable moments was just about half an hour before we went down. We were talking to the safety instructor, and suddenly the whole earth tremored. We all looked around in panic, asking - WHAT IN THE WORLD WAS THAT? He replied - oh, don't worry, it was just a seismic event. Oh, ok - THAT doesn't worry us. But we went down anyway. It took nearly an hour to get all geared up. You can see from the pictures-- we were in full body suits, belts, protective glasses, ear plugs, face mask, helmet with light, battery pack, life saver pack (in case of explosion(!), knee pads, huge rubber boots (just like yours Rarthur!) and gloves. And remember, it was over 104 DEGREES down there, with all of that on. I cannot IMAGINE working like that everyday - truly.

Needless to say - incredible, educational experience - one that I will never forget.

Bon Voyage Alicia!

Our dear fellow Rotary scholar Alicia Verhage has left us for home. Alicia (the blonde) went home early for one of her friend's weddings and to get ready for her own in January. I can't believe we are already at the point in the year that we are saying goodbye! The picture on the left is from the first day we all met in Grahamstown in February, and the picture on the right is the last picture we took right before Alicia left. Notice that Eben is wearing the same shirt - its because he only has 5. Its been an incredible year and is going too fast.

Miss you Alicia!

Bella

I *loved* this movie.
Say hello to a man so beautiful he rivals Gael. Yes, I said it - he rivals Gael.

In Grahamstown, the movie tickets are R22 - which is equivalent to $2.17 (at the current exchange rate of 10?!? rand to the dollar - thank you economic crisis) Needless to say, we have seen a lot of movies this year at the good old Roxbury Theatre. Rosa is usually my movie buddy, and we have a system down - one of us buys the movie tickets, and the other buys a big tub of popcorn. In South African movie theatres, they have flavors to put on the popcorn - like chutney, cheese, salt and vinegar, sour cream and onion, etc... so we cover the popcorn in a flavor (our fav. is the chutney) and then chow down. Because most of the movies start at 5:30, we miss dinner - but flavored popcorn and R22 movies = totally worth it.

Precious Preschoolers + Origami

When Victor was here a few weeks ago, he volunteered with me at St. Phillip's preschool. We took an origami 'pig' project for the kids. The results were just precious. However - I VASTLY overestimated the paper folding abilities of preschoolers. I thought we were going to have a whole farm of animals by the end of the morning, but we were lucky to even get through the pig. These kids light up my week every Tuesday - just look at how precious they are.


This is the 'model' of the pig we were folding. I got instructions from http://www.origami-fun.com/

Thesis progress...

In honor of FINISHING MY SECOND CHAPTER!!!!!! - I am posting a picture of my thesis adviser, Dr. Fluxman.

Woooohooo!

Blog Action Day - POVERTY.

Today - apparently - is blog action day, where everyone with a blog is encouraged to post on the same topic in order to hopefully change the conversation that day. This year, the topic is poverty.

Ohhh - poverty. Here's the deal with poverty - it makes me super tired. Yeah? Anyone else feel that way? Its overwhelming. Absolutely overwhelming. I have dozens of horrific stories of things I've seen that have brought me to tears - but really, I don't want to talk about that right now. Instead, I want to talk about some things that are a) not exhausting and b) super exciting.

And that would be-------- what we can do, right now, sitting at our computers.... ready?

One of the best presents I have ever received was from my dear and wonderful friend Ms. Pears, who for my birthday gave me a certificate to Kiva, a microfinance institution. The amazing thing about this present is that I was able to go online, and see dozens of people who wanted loans to start up small businesses to get themselves out of poverty. I then lent them the money that Ms. Pears had given me as a gift, and when they were finished with it - they paid it back. I was then able to lend it to the next person. It is truly one of the most beautiful, fulfilling gifts I could ever imagine receiving.

Another amazing site is Heifer International, where you can buy a cow, a goat, a pig, a bunch of chickens, etc. for a family that lives in poverty. Gifts like this are amazing as they not only provide once, but over and over again as the family is able to use the animals for their milk/eggs/meat/wool/etc. They are also able to breed their animals and create a sustainable source of income and food for themselves. AND, if you can't afford a whole cow, you can buy a share - no donation is too small.

Or what about buying a malaria net for only $10 - Malaria is one of the top killers in the entire world - and is entirely preventable. Just sleeping under a net decreases the chances of contracting malaria exponentially. You buy a kid a malaria net, you can save a life - poof! Just like that, with $10.

And there are tons of other organizations just like those out there. So, there. Writing about those organizations just made me happy. First of all - it is a way to combat poverty, right now - this very second. Second of all - if you are like me and never think more than about 12 hours ahead - they are a GREAT AMAZING BEAUTIFUL present for people. What better gift could you give someone than to tell them that in their name, you just made someone else's life better. All of those sites even have super amazing cards you can print off or email right to whoever's name you make the purchase for. Keep it in mind for stockings over Christmas.

Much love to you all.

WHERE IS MY ABSENTEE BALLOT??!?!?!

I ordered my absentee ballot months ago, and am STILL waiting on it to arrive.
I am getting super anxious - I am going to be SO angry if my ballot doesn't make it here in time.
I want to VOTE!!!

[Image location]

Hallelujah: South African Health Minister Makes the HIV-AIDS Link

So most people I talk to find it - surprising - that democratically elected government officials , in today's world, would deny such ideas as ... say... that HIV causes AIDS. However, sadly in South Africa, that has been the case.... but no longer my friends, no longer.

From The Los Angeles Times

South Africa's new health minister broke dramatically on Monday from a decade of discredited government policies on AIDS, declaring that the disease was unquestionably caused by HIV and must be treated with conventional medicine.

Health Minister Barbara Hogan's pronouncement marked the official end to 10 years of denial about the link between HIV and AIDS by former President Thabo Mbeki and his health minister Manto Tshabalala-Msimang.

Activists accused [former health minister] Tshabalala-Msimang of spreading confusion about AIDS through her public mistrust of antiretroviral medicines and promotion of nutritional remedies such as garlic, beetroot, lemon, olive oil and the African potato.

South Africa now has the world's highest number of people with HIV, counting some 5.4 million people as infected with the virus that causes AIDS.

Better late than never... right?

you know when you live in a different hemisphere when.....

My parents sent me this picture from the front porch of our house in Idaho. They apparently received about 16 inches of snow over the weekend.

Meanwhile, in South Africa......


I went to the beach.

My arms hurt.

The other day I tried to do push ups. I don't know why - I guess I thought I was still the super strong-somewhat athletic-semi bad-basketball player that I used to be.

Not so much.

I could do 2.

Which is somewhat depressing, especially considering I spent nearly 6 months on crutches a couple of years ago.

SO - I decided something needs to be done.
I started doing a few every day, and I'm already up to 10 'real' push ups and 20 'girly' push ups.

Today I discovered this lovely '100 push-up challenge' - sounds fun, right? I'll let you know in about 6 weeks if it is true to its claim. My arms are already super sore, and I haven't even started 'day 1' yet.

October is National Breast Cancer Awareness Month

Alright ladies - Since one of my great-grandmothers had breast cancer, and in general I am pretty passionate about getting people to know their bodies and be proactive about this kind of thing.... I challenge you to check your boobies this month. The links below provide instructions in how to do a self-exam.




http://www.checkyourboobies.org/
http://www.feelyourboobies.com/

Rotary conference/Lesotho here we come!

Rosa and Eben and I are renting a car and heading out in the morning for our Rotary District conference in Welcom (about a 600km drive). We will get the chance to get all caught up on the news about Rotary in the Eastern Cape and will give a (fabulous) presentation.

On the way home, we are spending a few days traveling in Lesotho, so I will most likely be MIA until next week. Have a wonderful week and happy October!

PS: Chapter 1 - CHECK!

Pictures from Malawi!

Malawi

Chapter one, coming up... and a new president for South Africa!

Today I will submit Chapter 1 of my thesis - eeeek! I have some MAJOR writing to do before this afternoon.


Oh, and we have a new president of South Africa. I really don't know anything about him - other than he sacked the health minister, which leads me to the next news....


BEAUTIFULLY, we have a NEW HEALTH MINISTER!!!!!!!!!!!
The last one was - and I'm not a bit ashamed to feel this way - one of the worst things to ever happen to South Africa. I personally believe that her prevarication has directly led to the deaths of hundreds if not thousands of HIV positive people. That said, I wish her well in her new career and thank God that there is someone else in her position.
http://allafrica.com/stories/200809250958.html

What a year to be in South Africa!

Goodbye, Trevor.

Today 11 Cabinet members resigned along with Mbeki. This includes Trevor Manuel, who has been the Minister of Finance since 1996 - respected throughout the world for his work. The news rocked South Africa's economy today, and the rand fell against the dollar - it is now over 8 rand for every dollar.

http://www.mg.co.za/article/2008-09-23-sa-rocked-by-resignation-of-ministers

Goodbye, Mbeki.

I just watched the president of South Africa formally resign. One of my roommates started crying (which in turn of course made me tear up as well - can't let anyone cry alone). Though I have been here for 9 months, I can only begin to understand what it would feel like to have to sit and watch the president of your country step down for reasons that are not fully understood. It is a tense and trying time for the nation. However, it is also a point where this young democracy could truly mature, if it is handled correctly. Keep it and all South Africans in your prayers as they face the future.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7627957.stm

wow.

The ANC, which is the ruling political party of South Africa, just announced that it decided to recall Thabo Mbeki before the end of his term next year, a move that could collapse the government. Mbeki has been accused of interfering in the judicial process that was taking place around the incoming president, Jacob Zuma. Mbeki is only the 2nd president of the democratic South Africa - he is the successor of Nelson Mandela.

In other words, they are ousting the president of the country. My roommates are just saying that this is more or less an organized or civilized coup. This is a huge move -- pray for political stability.

http://www.iht.com/articles/ap/2008/09/20/africa/AF-South-Africa-Mbeki.php

Is the World Falling Apart?

That's what I wondered from Malawi as I read U.S. news headlines. Fannie May and Freddie Mac, Lehman, A.I.G.... Hurricane Ike. I get the hurricane, but the rest? I'm clueless as to what caused this 'financial crisis' or what the repercussions are. HOWEVER, I read this article from the New York Times this morning, and it helped me understand.... at least a little bit. I recommend it!

Diamond and Kashyap on the Recent Financial Upheavals

Helping Houston After Ike

While I was in Malawi, I received news that Houston had been hit by a serious hurricane. The results were fortunately not as bad as it could have been, but yet for many, were still devastating. Many of my friends and former students are still without power, and many, many have sustained serious damage to their homes. Even the school where I used to teach has received serious damage. My heart goes out to everyone there as they pick up the pieces after the storm. I wish I was there to do the same.

Below is a letter from Chris Seay, the pastor of the church I attended in Houston (Eccelsia). The people of Ecclesia are a phenomenal bunch - the members there are much more than just a group that gets together on Sundays - as a church body, they are a relief organization, community mobilizers, social justice pursuers, and much more. Being part of that church body truly changed my life and taught me what it means to live my faith. I have seen first hand how they mobilize the community and provide for all of those in need without condition. If you, your organization or church is looking for a way to help, anything sent toward Ecclesia would quickly reach those who need it most.
(pictures taken from bbcnews.com and nationalgeographic.org)

www.ecclesiahouston.org

Chris’ Letter:

My Brothers and Sisters,

I am not sure how clearly the national media is telling the story of the devastation in Houston and Galveston, but I can tell you that the rare combination of a massive storm that filled the Gulf of Mexico and the fact that it struck Houston and Galveston ( a combined population of close to 5 million people) has created a disaster of immense proportions. The majority of the city is still without power and clean water and almost everyone has some kind of damage to their residence or business. Houston, which became known as a city of generosity and hospitality after Katrina, is now experiencing what it is like to be on the other end of that kind of generosity.

Ecclesia is thrilled to be able to represent the broader church as a source for light and love to so many hurting in the devastation of this storm. We will continue to need teams skilled in debris removal, demolition, and construction for much of the coming year. If you are willing to send a team, we will work to provide lodging and logistical support for your teams. We are longing to have brothers and sisters that will demonstrate the love of the Liberating King as they help families in a time of dire need. In addition to those that will come and labor alongside of us, there are some immediate financial needs that would help us to serve the region and share the hope of the gospel. There are three areas of immediate needs:

1)Relief Support - any donations to relief support will go to purchase chainsaws, tools, food, van rentals, water, generators, temporary employment for relief coordinators, and necessary items to support relief teams. We are estimating the immediate need for relief support to be more than 25,000 dollars. If you are able to purchase any of these items in your area and have them delivered to Houston, this would be preferred over local purchasing. However both can be accommodated.

2)Financial Relief – for those suffering financially because of loss of property and income, we would like to offer a short term assistance package. For countless families and individuals struggling to make it financially before the storm (hourly wage employees, immigrants, and single mothers), the last week has often been devastating. We hope that the federal government will improve in their response time, but the church is able and willing to fill this gap. If you would like to give specifically to this package we will distribute the following on your behalf. In the case of single mothers we intend to double the assistance.
$150 Mortgage/Rental Assistance
$100 Grocery Card
$50 Gas Card
$20 Basic Toiletries
Gospel of John (VOX)
We will attempt to continue or begin a long-term relationship with all assisted families and will offer this assistance to as many as possible.

3) Taft Street Coffee as a House of Hospitality - You may know that Taft Street Coffee (the coffee shop owned and run by Ecclesia) is rated each year as one of the top 3 coffee shops in the entire city. This morning we had our power restored and would like to re-open the shop as a site for those still without power. We estimate that over the next three weeks many would benefit from a centrally located house of hospitality that offers air conditioning, a free lunch, coffee drinks, Wi-Fi, phone service, children’s play space, and spiritual support. If you would like to sponsor the food and operational costs to run Taft Street Coffee as a gift to the community, we estimate that cost to be $850 per day.

If you have any questions you can contact me (Chris@ecclesiahouston.org / cell 713 539-9201) or our Mission Pastor John Starr (john@ecclesiahouston.org / cell 832 630-4267). I am grateful for the love and support of the entire church to my beloved City.

In Service to The Liberating King and His Kingdom,

Chris Seay
Pastor – Ecclesia Houston
2115 Taft
Houston, Tx 77006

Readjusting

When some people come back from poor countries, they sit at home in their living rooms and wonder what they can get rid of and how they can better serve the poor.

I read People magazines.

I don't know what the deal is, but whenever I get back from a really intense experience in a developing area, I go into this hyper-consumer mode and want to buy everything that I see.

Traveling back from Malawi, I went through this process in the Joburg airport. The first thing I saw when I got off the plane back in Johannesburg was a huge, shining, shimmering, sugary-smelling candy store. You know, one of those with hundreds of bins of every kind of candy you have ever seen - licorice, chocolates, gum drops, hard candy, soft candy - - pretty much anything that could possibly rot out your teeth was in that store. They had imported candy from Europe, the US, and even parts of Asia. Oh, the glory of the colors, the extravagance, the stickiness.... after the dirt, poverty and heart-wrenching reality of Malawi, this candy store stood as the beacon of all that was excessive, consumeristic and luxurious. I was in awe. I wandered into the store in a daze, and the sticky surgary smell enveloped me with open arms. I walked from candy bin to candy bin, staring in to each one for an inappropriately long amount of time. I was a pretty sight, I'm sure. I was dirty, covered in paint from the previous days of painting classrooms, and wearing dirty clothes (we hadn't had water the last couple of days I was in Malawi), and hugging two backpacks - one on my front and one on my back. And I could not get enough of the candy store. I didn't know what to pick out - there were so many choices! I wandered around so long that the store manager came and asked me politely if I needed help with anything. This snapped me out of my daze, and I quickly grabbed three bags (yes, bags), paid and left. I then found the entertainment section of a newspaper that had been tossed aside on a table, sat in a corner by myself near my boarding gate, and greedily ate candy until my stomach hurt and my teeth were fuzzy.

And that I how I dealt with reverse culture shock. I have no idea what this says about my character, but it can't be good.

Preview of Malawi

Pictures from Pretoria

Malawi bound!

I had a wonderful, wonderful time in Pretoria with Estelle and her family. Estelle took me for a taste of Afrikaner culture around Pretoria (including a meal at Boer'giousie and a visit to the Voertrekker monument! - pictures coming shortly) . I also had the chance to *relax* in their beautiful home, get some reading done, and take long naps. :) Yesterday we headed into Johannesburg to the American consulate and I was able to get long awaited pages added to my ridiculously full passport - yay! I will finally not have to stress out every time I cross a border.

And now - I am sitting in the airport awaiting my flight to Malawi. Tracy and her daughter McKallie are most likely on my same flight, so I am keeping my eye out for them. I am extremely excited.

A special thank you to Estelle and her wonderful family for taking me in and making me feel at home the last several days!!!!

Views of Grahamstown from the Observatory

Off to Joburg and Pretoria!

In just a few hours I am heading out to the airport in Port Elizabeth to fly to Johannesburg. I am going to stay with Estelle (one of my roomies) and her family for a few days - I am so excited! I am excited to see all of the places she has told me about and in general, get to know a different part of the country. Then on Wednesday I'll fly from Johannesburg to Malawi for a week!

PS - I am having trouble uploading pictures lately, but I have a bunch that I will send as soon as I can.

Hello, procrastination.

This is one of those things that I never fill out - until I am supposed to be packing.

What were you doing 5 Years ago?
I was studying in Guanajuato, Mexico,and about to move to Buenos Aires, Argentina - my first experience living out of the country

5 Months ago?
I was camping in Addo Elesphant park near Grahamstown South Africa - I had just returned from a road trip through Namibia.

5 Things on my to-do list:
1. Pack for Johannesburg and Malawi
2. Finish Chapter 1 of my thesis
3. Write my Development Sociology paper
4. Get extra pages in my passport
5. Buy a calling card to call my dad on his birthday next week

5 Favorite Snacks:
1. sparkling water (newfound love thanks to Jeannie)
2. fruit - especially tangerines, berries, or any dried fruit
3. popcorn - but the real kind, not the kind with fake butter
4. chai tea
5. rice crispy treats

6 things I'd do with a Billion Dollars:
1. buy a lifetime supply of plumpy nut for every orphanage I have ever visited and/or find a way for those orphanages to produce plumpy nut on their own.
2. start a fund for low-income kids to study abroad or do service work abroad
3. create a sustainable fund to pay preschool teachers in Grahamstown a descent salary (they literally make next to nothing and their job is SOOO important for setting kids up for success)
4. buy rain water tanks for every school in the Grahamstown township so they don't have to rely on the district for water - and begin building sanitation systems (i.e. get descent sewage systems put in and running water in every home/school/clinic - no more bucket toilets!)
5. ask my brother to invest it so that all of the above projects would be sustainable - he's brilliant about stuff like that.
6. go to medical school - for real. maybe do a m.d./ph.d

5 Places I've lived:
1. Burley, Idaho
2. Houston, Texas
3. Denver, Colorado
4. Nuevo Vallarta, Mexico
5. Grahamstown, South Africa

5 Things you might not know about me:
1. I have very bad hearing. Often people will be singing along to a song on the radio that I cannot hear at all. It also means I ask "what?" about 200 times a day.
2. I get woozy and/or faint every time I see my own blood, get a shot, or think that I may be hurt - anyone else, I'm fine, even fascinated. But if its me, not so much.
3. I HATE when my feet are dirty or sticky. I also hate wearing shoes. This is problematic.
4. Until 2003 I had only been to one country outside of the United States - but in the last 5 years I have traveled to 24 countries
5. Unless there is a miracle, I am out of commission by about 10:30pm. This infamously included my 21st birthday when my parents, who met me in New Orleans for the occasion, out-partied me. By a lot.

SURPRISE! and.... SURPRISE!

I surprised Victor on his birthday on August 2nd by driving with Kate Lindsay and Rach to Cape Town. We essentially crashed his birthday party dinner. It was so much fun to be the one surprising him for once! The pictures on the left are from his birthday dinner.

However, I didn't get to gloat long, because this week, Victor ONCE AGAIN surprised me by coming to Grahamstown! He arrived in the middle of the night, but I didn't hear my phone, so I didn't see him until Sunday morning (the poor guy had to sleep in the car!) --- it was such a wonderful, relaxing week with him! Since he drove, we also got be tourists and see some of the sites that I haven't ever seen around Grahamstown, like the local monastery and the Observatory museum, where you can see the entire city of Grahamstown projected on to a plate. It was actually really, really cool. We also volunteered together at the preschool I work at each week.

Pictures: Top row - Victor playing his guitar in my room, Victor figuring out a way to get a bird out of my house (it flew in the window), Volunteering at the preschool. Middle row - Victor and I at the Monastery, monastery view, and Vic and I overlooking Grahamstown. Bottom Row - Vic climbing down from the observatory, the monastery sign, and Vic and I again at the monastery.

Reunion!!

One of the hardest things about leaving Cape Town in January was to leave behind the project that Wezi (pictured) was working on. Her dream was to open a program for kids in grade 1 who are not ready to be there - working with the kids who would otherwise get left behind. Wezi was Jeannie and my Xhosa teacher, and we spent hours talking over her plans and dreams with her, and figured out how to make them into a reality. I was so, so excited to be involved, and going to Grahamstown was so hard for the fact that I knew I wouldn't be able to be as involved. A few weeks ago I was in Cape Town, and I got the chance to meet up with Wezi and catch up - and - her news was amazing. With Jeannie's help, Wezi has got her program up and going in two schools, with plans to move into a third. She is working with the kids with the most needs. Even more amazingly, because the schools she is working in have seen the progress she has made with the kids, they have agreed to start up an entire school-based program for remediation, to better set up kids for success. Beautiful. Go get 'em, Wezi!!!

Cape Town views

Several weeks ago, I went to Cape Town with Kate, Pears and Rachael, who had visited from the US. After saying goodbye, I was super sad, so Victor took me on a little drive to see beautiful Cape Town views.

Origami

Next week I am going to do origami projects with the kids, so I have been looking up ideas on the internet - this site is the best I've found. If you are looking for a little craft idea, it is a great resource!!

Origami for Kids

Vacillating Part II

Just got back from the preschool. I spent the morning making "toilet paper roll bracelets" with the kids - it was actually very fun and, as always, the kids were adorable and full of energy and fun.

the world is right again. :)

Vacillation

On the way to the post office this morning I passed a man I pass almost everyday. He sits under one of the trees on the sidewalk and plays the guitar for tips. Eben befriended him early in the year, and through that connection, he always remembers me as well, and usually jumps up to give me a hug and remind me that I promised to buy a CD from him before the end of the year.

He is also HIV positive.

Today when I walked by him he wasn't playing, and he didn't jump up - he was quite clearly ill. I stopped to say hi on my way back and noticed that his eyes are almost completely yellow now, a sign of jaundice. He lifted his shirt to show me an oozing infection spreading over his stomach. This is an oportunistic infection - one that with a healthy immune system would not have made it past white blood cells. But this infection is rotting his skin and if left unchecked, will kill him.

To stay healthy he needs not only ARVs but also a diet rich in vegetables, fruits and grains - expensive commodities for someone who makes his money on the street at the mercy of those who walk by.

As usual, he asked me for money. This time I actually gave him a few rand hoping that he will buy vegetables, though I have no idea whether he will or not.

He asked me for a loan so that he could get an injection to kill the infection. I did not give it to him. I don't know whether I should have or not. I don't even know if he was telling the truth or not. I don't know if that should matter or not.

A side note - there is a very distinct difference between beggers on the street here and beggers in the United States. In the US, I usually know what to do - I know our systems are far from perfect, but there are shelters and soup kitchens, unemployment agencies, and so on that are in place. It does not work for everyone, but most people who find themselves on the street are able at some point to be reintegrated into the working economy. This is not to say that poverty is not very REAL in the United States - far from it. Poverty is real and alive and affecting thousands of people, something I saw everyday when I was working in Houston. It is something that needs fought with every ounce of strength that Americans have.

But here, poverty and homelessness are different than they are in the United States. Yes, there are a couple soup kitchens (in Grahamstown they are both run by a wonderful Rotarian) - but there is no shelter, or infastructure in place to absorb the people on the street and reintegrate them into the economy. And worse, there is no industry in Grahamstown. Few jobs. Especially if you are sick. Especially if you are dying - which an estimated 18-24% of the population is. That means that roughly one out of every 4 or 5 people of working age are facing similar dilemmas to the man I pass on the street every day - they are HIV positive. And in places like the township, unemployment reaches as high as 75 or 80%.

I vacillate between surges of hope and feelings of futility.

Namibia!

One of the first trips I took during my year here was a 2 week camping trip to Namibia. I just saw this slideshow on nytimes.com and had to share - we saw most of these things in person! Check it out - a stark but beautiful country...

The Lure of Namibia

Malawi, I'm on my way - and other such news.

Its official! I just booked a ticket to Malawi for September 10-17th. One of our dear family friends, Tracy, is coming down with her daughter to prepare to officially open an orphanage. This is a project that I have held near to my heart since the moment I heard about it, and I am so excited toIgo and spend some time (albeit short) with them and see the amazing work that is taking place. Here's the link to the orphanage:

McKallie's Home of Future and Hope

It continues to amaze me that I do things like book tickets to Malawi and plan trips to orphanages as one of my daily activities. I cannot image being more blessed. I have been thinking about this a lot lately... and I don't even know where to begin expressing gratitude for - all of this.

In other news, I went back to Settler's Hospital today. (this is where I play with HIV+ kids while they wait for treatment) This was a somewhat big deal for me because since I went last week I have been pretty emotional - it was very hard on me emotionally last time. Today I spent the morning making animal masks with the kids and then playing tiger and springbok (meaning they are the tigers and I am the springbok, meaning essentially they have an excuse to hit/kick me - its great). It amazes me how impressionable kids are. They especially liked the way that I drew stripes on my tiger mask, and about 4 of them copied me meticulously. I kept lamenting that I had gone the traditional route with the colors, as all of them followed suit (I believe in encouraging creativity, even if that means a green polka-dot tiger). It made me hyper-aware of how actions are so much louder than words. Not speaking the same language also makes me aware of that. :)

Tangent on that note: today I was really hyped up about talking to the kids in Xhosa, as almost none of them speak English. I made a promise to go out of my way to address them in Xhosa (as most of the volunteers don't). So I sat down, gathered my courage (and pride), picked my kid, and threw at him my very best opening lines of Xhosa. He just stared at me. So I tried again, speaking more clearly this time - Ngubani igama lakho? (what is your name?) - more stares. Then he said, patiently: Are you trying to ask my name? "My name is Sipho and I speak English." Ha! Thank you Sipho.

You speak it, brother.

I feel like St. Francis of Assisi and I would have gotten along.
I would be a nun if it would teach me to love like him.
Today I was reading the stories behind two of his most famous 'quotes' - which actually are not his quotes, but definitely portray the way that he lived his life and his teachings.

Lord make me an instrument of your peace

Where there is hatred,
Let me sow love;
Where there is injury, pardon;
Where there is error, truth;
Where there is doubt, faith;
Where there is despair, hope;
Where there is darkness, light;
And where there is sadness, Joy.

O Divine Master grant that I may not so much seek to be consoled
As to console;
To be understood,as to understand;
To be loved, as to love.
For it is in giving that we receive,
It is in pardoning that we are pardoned,
And it is in dying that we are born to eternal life.

AND - my all time favorite:

Preach the Gospel at all times. If necessary, use words.

La chureca

Watch this short documentary, if you can. It is only about 10 minutes long and very imformative.
It is also near and dear to my heart - it is about the people who live and work in the dump in the city of Managua, Nicaragua. The name of this dump is La Chureca. When I worked in Nicaragua two summers ago, I was working at Project Chacocente with families who had lived in this dump... that summer completely changed my life.

This film is especially wonderful to me because the film maker (Benjamin Packard) is the best friends of one of my very favorite and dearest friends. I found out he was interested in working on a documentary about people who work in a dump and told him about Project Chacocente (the project I had worked at)... passed on the email addresses I had, and voila! Connections make the world go round.

Enjoy.

la chureca from retainer films on Vimeo.

heavy stuff.

I spent the morning 'volunteering' at Settler's Hosipital in the Children's HIV treatment centre. My job was to color with the kids while we waited for them to receive their ARV treatment, and then afterward while they waited for the blood test results.

I colored very hard. I colored like it was the last job I would ever have. I colored in panic, knowing I would only have a few minutes with each kid, and I was desperate to give them something.

It doesn't make sense. I mean, I study a lot about AIDS. All I do is read and write about it all day. And I go to AIDS testing centers, and I go to schools for street kids, and I take courses that study all of the underlying causes, so I get it. I get it. But I don't get it.

For each kid, I made a picture with their name in it, with animals, shapes or flowers all around their name. Some of the kids made me one, too, which was beyond precious.

The last kid I was coloring with didn't know how to write her name. I say her-- but I am actually not sure if it was a boy or a girl. She was completely emaciated. She almost didn't look entirely human - her eyes were so big and sunken into her head, the little bones were so sharp and looked like they were going to break through her skin. She was dying. I don't know how old she was - maybe 6? She was so tired, I could barely get her to color at all. We drew a lot of shapes together, like circles, triangles, squares, hearts. Then I drew a star and she looked up at me all shocked. So we spent the next 20 minutes or so learning how to draw stars, her mimicking me. Each time she completed one, she would smile this beautiful smile that literally melted my heart right out of my chest and onto the table. At the end, she drew one all by herself, and then had to go in for her treatment. She took the paper with her stars with her.

After she came out she was too tired to do much more, so I colored in the stars for her.

There is nothing fair about it.
I am angry.

Uganda turns to mass circumcision in Aids fight

FRANK NYAKAIRU | KAMPALA, UGANDA - Aug 13 2008 12:21
Ugandan authorities have launched a mass circumcision drive with the hope it will reduce HIV/Aids rates in the East African country.

Some studies indicate circumcision could be 70% effective in protecting men against infection by the virus during heterosexual intercourse, when used in conjunction with condoms and other safe-sex practices.

Government officials in Kampala have decided to take advantage of a month-long traditional "circumcision season" practised by some tribes to drive the message home.

"Socially, it is uniting, and now it has also been proven medically; that is gratifying and it is now part and parcel of the strategy for fighting Aids," Kibale Wambi, chairperson of Sironko district in eastern Uganda, said.

The government plans to circumcise more than 3 000 local youths between the ages of 12 and 18. HIV activists say there needs to be more money and efforts like this on a global scale.

But some critics of circumcision in Uganda say it is brutal and dangerous. In traditional settings like Sironko, circumcisers have used the same knife for each young man.

This time, the government has introduced a strict one-knife-per-operation ruling to ensure no infections are passed on.

"If a knife is to be re-used on another person, it first has to be sterilised," Wambi said, wearing a traditional hat covered with cowrie shells.

"We have also discouraged the traditional practice of forcing the circumcised males into sexual intercourse to prove their manhood after the wound heals, to avoid the spread of sexually transmitted diseases."

Some experts fear that some of the newly circumcised men may believe they are immune following the procedure -- translating into even more risky sexual behaviour.

"All I know is that when I am circumcised, it will not be as easy for me to get infected with HIV/Aids," said one young man, Kizeja Michael, as he lined up for the operation.

"People who are circumcised are not able to get Aids," said his friend, Peter Kibatsi.

Uganda has been widely praised for an education campaign about condoms that is credited with cutting HIV prevalence rates from 30% two decades ago to about 6% today. -- Reuters

Missing you Grandma!

I had a terrible wave of homesickness yesterday, as my entire family is gathering in Idaho today to celebrate my grandmother's 75th birthday!!! This is the very hardest part about being so far away. I am fortunate that I hardly ever get homesick, or if I do, a phone call home or whatnot usually is enough to get me through - but missing events like this makes me feel homesick all the way to my bones!

All of that said, I am so happy that everyone is getting together to celebrate my grandma today. She is one of my favorite people in the ENTIRE world, and truly one of my best friends. Since I was little, hearing her voice on the phone has been one of my favorite things ever, and I have never been as relaxed as I am when I spend time with her and Da on the ranch. She is one of the most resilient and adaptable people I know - she has spent her adult life moving all around the world, raising kids. Now she helps run a ranch and is also the best cook in the entire world - one of my life goals is to be able to cook even a portion as well as she does.

I feel so lucky to have such a close relationship with my grandma, especially one as special as mine. I am bummed I am missing the get together, but I am celebrating her from afar!

I am definitely there is spirit today. Happy, happy birthday Grandma, I love you!

The Best Vaction EVER.

Three of my very best friends came to visit South Africa this month - I have to be the luckiest person in the world! In the course of 6 weeks, I got the chance to travel with my parents around Southern Africa, Backpack through Central Africa, visit my fiance in Cape Town THREE times, and road trip through South Africa with three of my dearest friends.

I cannot imagine having a more amazing vacation. It was so much fun, but it was also so uplifting to me - after all of that I feel so refreshed and grounded. It is almost like I had a trip home!

Here is a link to the pictures of the trip with Rach Kate and Pears!!

Rach Pears and Kate's Grand Tour of South Africa

Pictures from Uganda, Rwanda, and DRC!!

Uganda, Rwanda, DRC

My backpacking trip through Central Africa was truly life changing - it is hard to sum it up in words, and even the pictures don't come close to doing it justice. However, if you click through the pictures, I've written captions trying to capture a portion of the experiences. Enjoy the pictures!!

Pictures from my Parent's Trip - South Africa, Zambia, ZImbabwe and Botswana!!

Just click on the picture below to take you to a picture album!

The Fletchers do South Africa

animal pics from parent's trip!

I left most of the animal pictures out of the album - but here are the highlights!

Happy 21st Bri!

Today is my brother's 21st birthday!

I feel very fortunate that I have a little brother that I completely look up to - and not just because he is taller than I am. :) He's about to be a senior (!!) at the University in Idaho, and is literally rocking his business program there. For the rest of my life I will definitely be going to him for any business/financial-related matters. But far more important, he is possibly the most genuine, caring, loyal and loving person I know.

Bri - I am so proud of you and am so lucky to be your sister. Happy happy 21st!!!!!! (and be safe... i do have half of mom's genes....then again so do you.)